The colors of the Lagoon - Sauteed 'castraure'

 

violet Venetian artichokes of Sant’Erasmo

These small artichokes are a delight.
They’re so beautiful that I fancy looking at them rather than eating them!
The purple color of the artichokes reminds me of Venice, its lagoon, and its deserted islands; to be on a boat at sunset when the colors blend together in the evening, the purples and the azures prevailing, and a quietness that stimulates the imagination. It makes me think of the crimson dresses of the noble Venetians and the colored shades made by the Venetian painters.

If I were to look for that very color in my family’s studio, it would be ultramarine violet. When applied, its transparency covers slightly and it also dries quickly. It’s the right match for the artichokes!

I remember those magic and silent moments, especially in that part of the lagoon where there is an island called Sant’Erasmo. In the past, this island was the vegetable garden of Venice and it supplied the whole city. Its land is still farmed today, amid ancient vineyards and little purple flowers growing wild. When I first saw it, I couldn’t believe my eyes. A real farming land just in front of Venice, only surrounded by water!

I brought back a box full of these young artichokes, just picked from the field. Towards the end of April, they are the first to be harvested and they are locally known as “castraure”. Later on, each plant will be very generous and grow about twenty or so artichokes. The water stirred by the oar is dark green and blue, the same colors as the artichoke’s stems and leaves. These artichokes have breathed the sea air and their roots have been nourished by a mix of salty and fresh water from the soil.
That’s why they have such a light, naturally salty, special taste. They are firm to the touch and have a nice smell of the lagoon. If I close my eyes I can recall those wonderful colors, the boat trips, and the silence of that special natural environment.
Now those colors are in front of me once again in these small, precious buds. Small like the place they were grown. And even today surrounded by fabrics and the fading lights of the late afternoon, after a day spent boating in the open air, I remember my appetite. I can already hear the garlic and parsley sizzling in the olive oil; it’s the promise of something good. Oil, garlic, and parsley are the basis for several Venetian dishes and are often used in many local recipes, from fish to risotto and for the artichokes, too. They promise pleasing to the nose. The lovely smell in the air makes you feel immediately hungry!

The typical taste of the artichokes, especially if accompanied by a glass of good wine, is a revelation to refined palates. It’s a perfect blend of sweet and sour, and a sip of wine reaffirms the taste of the artichoke… But to fully comprehend it, one should try it paying particular attention to the taste.

Some tastes seem ancient because they are well-established and strong. It makes me think back to the architecture of Venice, the noble city, which is solid and lightweight at the same time, undulating when reflected on the water. Like the artichokes! They are undulating and full of flavor, and while I’m eating them I can still hear the rustle of the long, ultramarine violet dresses…

SAUTEED ‘CASTRAURE’ (VIOLET VENETIAN ARTICHOKES OF SANT’ERASMO)

Ingredients:

*You can cook in this way many types of artichokes. If you can't find a boat to take you to St. Erasmo, I suggest you should use the purple artichokes which are the youngest and more tender and can be found in springtime.

  • 8-10 small artichokes

  • 2 big cloves of garlic

  • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

  • 1 small bunch of fresh parsley

  • 250ml vegetable stock

  • 1 lemon

  • Salt

Instructions

  1. Pull away the outer leaves and trim those that are prickly. Cut the artichokes in half and wash them in a bowl of cold water and the lemon juice. Leave them to soak while you proceed with the following:

  2. Heat the vegetable stock in a small pot. Clean and wash the parsley and the garlic, then roughly chop them together.

  3. Put the olive oil in a nonstick saucepan, better if high-edged, and add the chopped garlic and parsley. Now, take the artichokes out of the water and dry them slightly.

  4. Sauté the garlic and parsley, and add the artichokes halved side down in the saucepan. Leave it to simmer for a few minutes on medium heat, and then add enough vegetable stock to almost cover.

  5. Put the lid on and leave it to cook on medium-high heat for about 20 minutes. Then take the lid off and leave it for 5 -10 minutes to reduce the stock but be careful not to let them dry too much. Add the salt to taste.

 
 
Venetian side dishesZaira Zarottivenetian, vegetables, vegetarian